Chico Cesar – Respeitem Meus Cabelos Brancos


They say India teaches you patience. They say India works different and you have to go with it and see what happens. It is right what they say – applied for foreigners that is. Watching the traffic it becomes clear that patience is not an Indian virtue.   If you want to over take: HONK. If you are overtaking: HONK. If somebody is in your way (and can`t move): HONK. If you are about to be rammed: HONK. If you are driving through a pedestrian area at high speed. HOOOOOOONK. If none of the above applies: HONK.


After my escape to Delhi I escape Delhi and end up in Baghsu, a small colony of shops and guesthouses just a short walk away from McLeod Ganj the residence in exile of the Dalai Lama. Baghsu is full of Israelis and thermal solar collectors. Interesting fact: The solar collectors are the only way to guarantee affordable hot water here. Gas bottles are expensive and electricity is cut several times a day.   Three times I go on a trek. First time to  the shiva caffee high above a waterfall where I discuss Solar concepts with S. from India and P. from Sweden. The second time a hike to a higher waterfall where I end up alone on a high up rock pumping with adrenaline, thanking gods I don`t believe in for bringing me here. The third time we hike up a mountain to a Tibetian school and a holy but very polluted lake. On the way back we experience Alfred Hitchcocks “The Birds” but with monkeys. Creepy.




Just before we (a group of 5 people) leave to the next destination I get to see the Dalai Lama after one of his public teachings. He is just an armlength away. But more fascinating than the man are followers. Especially the western ones. “My hard is beating so hard.” some woman says behind me. Another one is crying. The Asian worshipers are less emotional but very eager to touch him.   The next day it is off to Amritsar and the golden temple. The bus system in India is incredible. We never spend more than 2 minutes waiting for a connection. They say you either love or hate India depending if you are able to filter out the bad things like poverty and pollution. I haven`t decided yet. So far I didn`t succeed in filtering out. Especially the pollution (which is again connected to the poverty). Even in the rare case of a garbage bin they just empty that 2 meters further on the street and set the garbage on fire. It seems to  be an universal solution. The smoke smells terrible and irritates my throat beyond healthiness.


Passing from Punjab into Radjasthan the pollution problem gets better by a lot. Not sure what they do differently because garbage bins are as scarce as anywhere else. Occasionally there is still burning garbage to be found. Arriving in Pushkar I get an emaiil from the barefoot college[1]. I am most welcome to join them for next month. My mind was already set on Nepal. But I guess Nepal will be still there in December.






All photos in this blog are my own and are not allowed to be used without my explicit permission.